Patio Power Wash And Seal
- Phase 1: Surface Decontamination. Based on the contaminant profile, I apply the correct pH-balanced chemical pre-treatment. We let it dwell for a specific time—typically 10-15 minutes—to break down the bond between the stain and the substrate. This allows the power washer to rinse, not blast, the contaminants away.
- Phase 2: Pressure and Flow Calibration. This is where my custom rig shines. I never exceed 2,500 PSI on concrete and often stay below 1,500 PSI for pavers. The real work is done by the GPM (Gallons Per Minute) and the right nozzle. I exclusively use a 25-degree fan tip held at a consistent distance to sweep the dirt away without gouging the surface.
- Phase 3: Neutralization and Critical Drying. After washing, if an acidic cleaner was used, we neutralize the surface with a basic solution to prevent a pH imbalance that can interfere with sealer adhesion. Then, the most critical part: drying. We use gas-powered blowers to remove standing water and then wait. A surface can look dry but be saturated internally. We Test for dryness using the moisture meter again. I will not proceed until the reading is below 5%.
- Phase 4: Sealer Application: The Wet-Edge Technique. I prefer a low-pressure, high-volume sprayer for an even coat. The key is to maintain a "wet edge" at all times to prevent lap lines. As one technician sprays, another may follow with a specialized roller (back-rolling) to ensure the sealer fully penetrates the pores without pooling on the surface.
- Phase 5: Curing and Quality Control. The job isn't done after the last coat. We block off the area to foot traffic for at least 24 hours and to vehicle traffic for 72 hours. This allows the sealer to achieve its initial cure and cross-link properly, forming a durable, protective barrier.