Limestone Paving
- Sub-grade Soil Analysis: I assess the soil type, primarily its clay content and drainage capacity. Heavy clay soil retains water, creating hydrostatic pressure that pushes mineral salts up through the paving—the primary cause of efflorescence.
- Limestone Porosity Assessment: Not all limestone is created equal. I check the stone's specified water absorption rate, often referencing its ASTM C97 value. A high-porosity stone in a wet climate is a recipe for disaster without the right sub-base and sealer.
- Climate Stress Factor: I analyze the local freeze-thaw cycle frequency. Water that penetrates porous limestone, freezes, and expands is the leading cause of spalling and surface degradation. This factor directly influences the depth of the sub-base and the type of sealer I will specify.
- Excavation and Geotextile Barrier: Excavate to a minimum depth of 150mm for pedestrian traffic, plus the depth of the paving slab. Lay a non-woven geotextile membrane across the entire sub-grade, overlapping joints by at least 300mm. This is your insurance against sub-base contamination and waterlogging.
- Sub-Base Compaction in Lifts: Lay a minimum 100mm layer of MOT Type 1 aggregate. Critically, compact this in two 50mm "lifts" using a plate compactor. Compacting in a single thick layer results in a poorly compacted lower section, which will settle over time. I check compaction adequacy by eye; you should see no further settlement after 3-4 passes with the compactor.
- Laying Bed Specification: I use a semi-dry mix of 4 parts sharp sand to 1 part cement. It should be just moist enough to hold its shape when squeezed. A wet mix introduces excessive moisture directly beneath the porous stone, guaranteeing efflorescence.
- Sealer Selection and Application: This is where most people get it wrong. Do not use a topical sealer. It traps moisture and will peel. I exclusively use a high-quality, solvent-based impregnating sealer. It penetrates the stone's capillaries and lines them without sealing the surface, allowing the stone to breathe while repelling water. Apply two coats "wet-on-wet" as per manufacturer instructions, but only after the pointing has fully cured for at least 28 days.