Outdoor Enclosed Kitchen
- Vapor Barrier Integrity: This goes far beyond a simple plastic sheet. I mandate a fluid-applied, vapor-permeable air barrier on all exterior sheathing. Unlike sheet goods, this creates a monolithic, seamless barrier that eliminates air leaks at joints. The "permeable" part is critical; it allows trapped moisture to escape outward, preventing it from condensing inside the wall cavity. Before interior cladding, I run a diagnostic smoke test to visually confirm zero air infiltration points.
- Dynamic Air Exchange: A standard vent hood is grossly inadequate. The core of my system is a properly sized Make-Up Air (MUA) system interlocked with the exhaust hood. I calculate the required CFM (Cubic Feet per Minute) based on total appliance BTU output, not just the square footage. A 100,000 BTU grill in a 200 sq. ft. enclosure can create dangerous negative pressure, pulling exhaust fumes back into the space. The MUA system actively replaces the exhausted air, creating a stable, safe, and smoke-free environment.
- Thermal Bridging Mitigation: Condensation forms where cold and warm surfaces meet. In standard framing, every wood or steel stud is a thermal bridge. I eliminate this by specifying a layer of continuous exterior rigid foam insulation over the sheathing. This physically separates the framing from the exterior temperature, raising the dew point of the interior wall surface and making condensation buildup a non-issue. I also mandate the use of thermally broken fasteners to further reduce these transfer points.
- Foundation and Slab Isolation: We begin with a capillary break and vapor barrier directly under the concrete slab to stop ground moisture from wicking up into the enclosure.
- Framing and Sheathing: Frame the structure, then install the exterior sheathing. Every single seam must be sealed with a manufacturer-approved flashing tape before the air barrier is applied. This step is non-negotiable.
- Continuous Exterior Insulation: Install the rigid foam insulation over the sheathing, creating the primary thermal break. All seams are taped to create a secondary weather-resistive barrier.
- MUA and Exhaust System Rough-In: Before any interior work, we run the dedicated, hard-piped ducting for both the exhaust and the Make-Up Air system. I specify smooth-walled metal ducting to reduce static pressure and maximize airflow efficiency.
- Electrical and Gas Lines: Run all utilities, ensuring all wall penetrations are meticulously sealed with a high-quality sealant compatible with the air barrier. An unsealed electrical box can undo the entire system.
- Interior Cladding and Cabinetry: Select only non-porous or marine-grade materials. I favor composite cabinetry and stone or sintered stone countertops. Wood is an absolute last resort and requires specialized marine-grade sealants.