Patio Paver Cleaning And Sealing Near Me
- Stage 1: Calibrated Surface Decontamination. This isn't about blasting the surface at 4000 PSI. I use a fan-tip nozzle held at a consistent 45-degree angle to lift dirt without eroding the paver's micro-texture. The pressure is calibrated based on the paver's compressive strength, typically between 1500-2200 PSI.
- Stage 2: Joint Stabilization with Polymeric Sand. This is the most critical and most frequently botched step. The old sand must be completely excavated. When installing new polymeric sand, the key is proper compaction and a very specific water activation—a fine mist applied three times at 30-minute intervals. Too much water too soon washes the polymers away, resulting in weak, cracked joints.
- Stage 3: Curing and Moisture Metering. We never seal the same day we clean. A minimum 24-48 hour curing period is mandatory. Before applying sealer, I take multiple readings with a digital moisture meter. The surface must read below a 15% moisture content to prevent the sealer from turning hazy or white.
- Stage 4: Precision Sealer Application. Based on the paver type and desired finish, I apply sealer using a battery-powered, low-pressure sprayer to ensure an even, non-streaky coat. The golden rule is two thin coats are infinitely better than one thick coat. This prevents puddling and allows for proper adhesion.
- Stage 5: Final Curing and Inspection. The sealer needs 24 hours for light foot traffic and 72 hours to fully cure and develop its protective properties. My final inspection looks for consistent sheen and complete water beading across the entire surface.