Stone Walkway Pavers
- Subgrade Compaction & Stabilization: We don't just dig and dump gravel. The first step is to compact the native soil subgrade to 95% Standard Proctor Density. For clay-heavy soils, which I encounter frequently, I amend the subgrade with a lime-fly ash mixture to chemically alter its properties, reducing plasticity and increasing its load-bearing capacity by an estimated 40%.
- The Separation Layer: This is my biggest "trick of the trade." I install a commercial-grade, non-woven geotextile separation fabric directly on top of the compacted subgrade. This fabric has a specific flow rate and puncture resistance. It is the single most critical element, as it permanently prevents the underlying soil from mixing with the clean aggregate base, which is the primary long-term cause of sinking.
- Multi-Grade Aggregate Base: I never use a single type of stone. The base consists of a 4- to 6-inch layer of ASTM #57 stone (a clean, angular crushed stone) for rapid drainage, compacted in 2-inch lifts. This is topped with a 1-inch screeded layer of ASTM C33 concrete sand or #8 crushed stone chips, which provides the fine-tuning bed for setting the pavers. The angular nature of these materials is key; they interlock under compaction, unlike rounded river rock or pea gravel.
- Excavation and Pitch: Excavate to a minimum depth of 8 inches. The most critical part of this stage is establishing the drainage pitch. I use string lines and a laser level to create a 1/4-inch drop per linear foot, directing water away from structures. A level walkway is a future puddle.
- Subgrade Compaction: Once the grade is set, use a plate compactor to achieve uniform density across the entire subgrade. Any soft spots I find are dug out and backfilled with a more stable material.
- Geotextile Fabric Installation: Roll out the non-woven geotextile fabric, ensuring a minimum of 12 inches of overlap at all seams. The fabric should also extend up the sides of the excavated trench to fully encapsulate the aggregate.
- Aggregate Base Installation: Lay the #57 stone base in 2-inch lifts (layers). You must compact each lift individually with the plate compactor. Dumping all 6 inches of stone at once and compacting the top results in a loose, unstable bottom layer.
- Screeding the Setting Bed: Place two 1-inch outer diameter pipes on the compacted base and pour the C33 sand or #8 stone chips between them. Use a straight 2x4 to screed the sand across the pipes, creating a perfectly smooth and level 1-inch bed. Remove the pipes and fill the voids.
- Paver Installation and Edge Restraint: Lay the pavers in your desired pattern, working from a corner outwards. This step is straightforward, but it must be paired with the immediate installation of a non-negotiable edge restraint. I use heavy-duty composite or aluminum restraints staked into the base every 12 inches to prevent any lateral movement.
- Final Lock-In: Once all pavers and restraints are in place, make a final pass with the plate compactor (using a paver pad to prevent scuffing). Then, sweep polymeric sand into the joints, ensuring they are completely filled.