Stainless Steel BBQ Cabinets
- The 316L Mandate: For any project within 15 miles of a coastline, 316L stainless steel is my non-negotiable baseline. The addition of molybdenum provides superior resistance to chloride-induced pitting. A client who ignored this advice saw rust speckling on their 304-grade handles and drawer faces in just one season.
- Structural Integrity and Gauge: The thickness, or gauge, of the steel is paramount for load-bearing components. I specify a minimum of 18-gauge for cabinet bodies but insist on 16-gauge for any surface supporting stone countertops or heavy-duty grills. I once had to remediate an installation where a 20-gauge top panel warped permanently under the heat of a 90,000 BTU grill, a costly and avoidable fabrication error.
- Weld Inspection: Look for continuous TIG (Tungsten Inert Gas) welds on all seams, especially corners. Spot welds or screwed-together frames are immediate red flags for future structural failure. The welds should be clean, uniform, and ground smooth.
- Hardware Material Verification: I've seen beautiful 316L cabinets ruined by cheap, plated zinc hardware. All hinges, drawer slides, and handles must be made from the same grade of stainless steel as the cabinet body to prevent galvanic corrosion.
- Drawer Slide Load Rating: For drawers intended to hold heavy tools or charcoal, I specify a minimum 100 lb load rating on full-extension slides. Anything less will sag and fail over time.
- Door and Drawer Gaskets: For maximum protection against water and dust ingress, I require high-quality, weather-resistant gaskets on all doors and drawers. This is a small detail that dramatically improves cleanliness and longevity.
- Corner Bracing: All cabinet corners should be reinforced with fully welded gussets. This prevents racking and ensures the cabinet remains square after the installation of heavy countertops.